Mullaney’s Harp and Fiddle wants to be at the heart of Ireland’s Whiskey Revival! Production has grown 10% per year in the past decade, and is projected to more than double again by 2030. Irish whiskey is now the fastest growing spirits category in the world.
But, fortunes have not always been this good. Ireland’s whiskey story has many chapters. It is believed that Irish monks brought back distilling techniques from their missionary work prior to 1000 AD. The first written record of Irish whiskey occurred in 1405 — 90 years prior to the Scottish version. Appropriately, perhaps, “whiskey” is translated from the Gaelic meaning “water of life” (we agree!). The spirit became so popular the word “whiskey” entered the English dictionary in 1585. Dictionary authour Samuel Johnson revealed his preference. He favoured Irish whiskey which had a “pleasant and mild flavour”, while Scotch was “somewhat hotter”. Even Queen Elizabeth I enjoyed a tipple apparently!
Initially, distilling remained a cottage industry. King James I, however, issued the first official license to distill whiskey to Bushmill’s in 1608, although Kilbeggan still claims to be the oldest distillery. Nevertheless, the formal commercialisation of the category began.
As usual, governments could not leave well enough alone. As would occur in Pittsburgh in the 18th century, whiskey’s success led to higher taxation in 1661, and rebellion. To avoid these levies, much of Ireland’s production went underground. And, a distinction was made between licensed “Paliament Whiskey” and the illicit “small batch” Poitin (versions of which still exist today).
Again in 1751, government regulation led to innovation. As a result of higher taxation on malt barley, producers added unmalted barley to produce a “single pot still” whiskey (which is delicious, by the way). Even during the coming boom years of the 19th Century, only two distillers produced single malt whiskey.
Inspite of this government intrusion, Irish whiskey boomed during the 18th and 19th centuries. And, despite the Temperance Movement and the Potato Famine, output surged 4-fold during the 1800’s, fueled by population growth and huge international demand. By the beginning of the 20th century, Ireland had nearly 100 licensed distilleries (and many times that number of illicit stills). Ireland accounted for over 50% of global whiskey sales, which was the world’s top-selling spirit. Dublin was at the heart of this boom.
However, from these heady heights, the industry went into steep decline. There are many reasons for the slump: the impact of two World Wars, US Prohibition, and Great Britian’s trade embargo during the Irish War of Independence. Boot-legging of “Irish whiskey” by the likes of Al Capone also dented the category’s reputation.
However, technology also played a large role, and helps explain the loss of market share to Scottish producers. Irish inventor Aenaes Coffey introduced a new “column still”, which allowed large-scale, low-cost production. In addition, the repeal of the Corn Laws (which had prohibited the entry of foreign grain into Ireland and Britian) allowed producers to blend cheaper, imported grains with local barley. Irish producers, however, considered the blended variety so inferior they did not consider it whiskey. Scottish producers were less choosy, and adopted the new cost-saving technology. In order to make clear the distinction with Scotland’s new “whisky”, Irish producers added an “e” to their whiskey!
Whatever the reasons, Ireland’s global market share collapsed to a mere 2%, and was eclipsed by Scottish whisky. By the 1970’s, there were only two distillers left in Ireland, and none in Dublin.
Now, however, the Fighting Irish are battling back! After hitting a nadir of only 400,000 cases, output will reach 12 million cases this year, e.g. the same peak level achieved circa 1900. Bearing in mind the four-fold increase in the world’s population, there’s still huge room to grow. Producers have become more innovative, and are creating new, interesting varieties. Tastes are also changing. Millennials are passing up their pints, and sipping more cocktails. The arrival in Ireland of global beverage industry heavy-weights Pernod Ricard, Diageo, and Beam/Suntory has jump-started a world-wide marketing campaign.
At last count, there are now 25 distilleries, with another 25 on the way. Indeed, production has returned to Dublin after a 40-year hiatus! But, the map shows the producers are spread across the Isle. One brand — Jameson — still holds a dominant 75% market share. There is plenty of room for newcomers…..like Mullaney’s Irish Whiskey! We invite you to join us in supporting the revival of Irish whiskey!
Mullaney's Irish Whiskey 